peace lily

How to care for peace lilies?

Botanical name
Spathiphyllum
Family
Araceae

Peace lilies are kept in a bright spot out of direct sun. They are watered when the top third of the potting mix has dried out. They are repotted from March to April.

Peace lilies are perennial plants.

The medium should be moist and never soaked. A peace lily lets its leaves droop before the shortage of water does it harm, and that droop is the sign that the watering came too late.

A peace lily may not flower at all in its first year. A single flower lasts for months, and the flowering repeats within a season.

It is repotted once the roots fill the pot densely. An overgrown clump can be divided at the same time, and every piece has to keep roots and shoots.

peace lily
Photo: JJ Harrison · CC BY-SA 3.0

Peace lilies through the year

JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
Repotting
Flowering
15913172125293337414549
  • repotting
  • flowering

In short

Repotting
from March to April, every two years
weeks 10 to 17
Flowering
from March to August
weeks 10 to 35
Propagation
division

Growing conditions

🪨
Soil
light
💡
Light
a bright spot out of direct sun
💧
Watering
when the top third of the potting mix has dried out
🌫️
Air humidity
moderate
🧣
Overwintering
must come indoors
📏
Height
30 to 180 cm
⚠️
Toxicity
toxic to people and animals, toxic parts: leaves

Are peace lilies toxic to cats and dogs?

Yes. Toxic to people and animals, toxic parts: leaves.

Pests and diseases

Listed here is every problem for which the sources name this plant as a host. The problems are not listed in order of how common they are.

Signs
Small dark gnats run over the surface of the compost or fly just above it. The larvae, with a shiny black head, live in the compost. At first the plant only loses its healthy look.
Prevention
The trouble is nearly always compost that is too wet and rich in peat: let the top layer dry out between waterings. A layer of sand or fine gravel on top of the pot takes the gnats' place for their eggs away.
What to do
Products with Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis are watered into the compost and work on the larvae, not on the adult gnats.
Signs
Flecks of white waxy wool in the leaf axils, along the leaf sheaths and in other sheltered corners of the plant. Under them sit soft pink bugs and orange eggs. The plant is sticky with honeydew, black sooty mould grows over the leaves, growth stalls and the leaves may drop early. Some species live on the roots and show up only at repotting.
Prevention
The females neither fly nor walk far, so you nearly always bring them in with a new plant: check the leaf axils when you buy and keep a new plant apart from the collection for a while. Clear away dead leaves and prunings as they appear, because the eggs are on them. A plant will take a few mealybugs. A badly infested one is often cheaper to throw away than to rescue. In a greenhouse the predators hold them down, the ladybird Cryptolaemus and parasitic wasps, which work in the warm half of the year.
What to do
The waxy coat repels the spray, so potassium soap has to reach exactly the leaf axils where the bugs sit, and a single application is rarely enough. Single nests are easiest to take off with a cotton bud.
Signs
Scale like bumps stuck to the stem and the underside of the leaves, on the indoor species preferably along the midrib. They do not move and are easy to overlook as part of the plant. The soft scales give off honeydew, so the leaves turn sticky and blacken with sooty mould. In a heavy attack the growth falters.
Prevention
As with the mealybugs: the adult females do not fly, so they arrive with a new plant. Check the stems and the veins on the underside of the leaves and keep a new plant apart for a while. A healthy, well kept plant takes the odd scale and action is not always needed. Put a plant that may go outdoors in summer outside, because cooler air and the predators do more than spraying.
What to do
An adult scale is protected from the spray under its waxy shield, so scrape it off with a fingernail, a cloth or an old toothbrush while there are few of them. A badly infested house plant is often better thrown away than treated.
Signs
Small pale dots show over the upper side of the leaf, with a generally faded look. In a heavy attack the leaf browns or yellows and the plant dies. When it gets worse, a fine web is visible between the leaves.
Prevention
Most at risk are the plants that stand in the dry air of a room all year. Mist regularly and raise the air humidity to lessen the trouble. Keep new plants apart from the others for a few weeks.
What to do
On sturdy plants wash them off thoroughly with water first. Then potassium soap, which works on contact and has to reach the underside of the leaf.

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Related plants

The plants below are in the same botanical family (Araceae).

Sources about the plant: ASPCA Toxic and Non-Toxic Plants, Clemson Cooperative Extension, GBIF Backbone Taxonomy, NC State Extension Plant Toolbox, Royal Horticultural Society, Wikidata. Checked between 14 and 22 August 2026. The problem descriptions also draw on: EPPO Global Database.