When to sow cabbage?
- Botanical name
- Brassica oleracea
- Family
- Brassicaceae
Cabbage is sown outdoors from February to July, 2 cm deep. It germinates in 8 to 12 days. It is harvested from June to November.
Cabbage is a biennial plant. The edible parts are the leaves.
Cabbage through the year
- indoor sowing
- transplanting
- outdoor sowing
- harvest
In short
The last frost is not on the same day everywhere, so the recorded weeks are a guide and not a date.
Growing conditions
Companions in the bed
Companion planting is tradition and not an agronomic claim. What is recorded is which pairs sources recommend and which they advise against.
This is good use of space rather than plant protection: the lettuce is picked before the cabbage covers the ground.
Both plants are in the same family and the same caterpillars attack them, so planting them together is asking for trouble. The same holds for every brassica.
Both plants are in the same family and the same caterpillars attack them, so planting them together is asking for trouble. The same holds for every brassica.
- “Cited” means the pair is named by one source or two.
Pests and diseases
Listed here is every problem for which the sources name this plant as a host. The problems are not listed in order of how common they are.
Aphids
pest- Signs
- Colonies of small aphids sit on the shoot tips and the underside of the leaves. The leaf curls and puckers, and sticky honeydew is left on everything below. The viruses they carry are more dangerous than the feeding itself.
- Prevention
- Go easy on nitrogen, because soft sappy growth is what aphids are looking for. Encourage the predators (ladybirds, lacewings, parasitic wasps). Use a reflective mulch, which puts them off settling, and a strong jet of water to knock the colony off the tips.
Cabbage caterpillars
pest- Signs
- The outer leaves of the brassicas have holes eaten into them. The caterpillars and their dark droppings are on the leaves. Some species bore into the heart of the head and show up only when the head is cut open.
- Prevention
- Check the underside of the leaves regularly and pick off the eggs before they hatch. Cover the crop with a fine mesh or fleece, so that the butterflies and moths do not reach the plants at all.
- What to do
- Pick the caterpillars off by hand and remove the affected leaves. Covering with a mesh from planting on is more reliable than picking, because it stops the eggs being laid instead of dealing with the damage afterwards.
Cabbage root fly
pest- Signs
- Transplanted brassicas grow poorly, droop and die, most often in a first wave in late spring. White larvae without legs or head bore into the root collar and the roots.
- Prevention
- Keep to a rotation, because the fly hatches from pupae that overwinter in the soil under the previous brassica. Protect transplanted plants at planting, not at the first sign, because by then the larva is already in the root.
- What to do
- Lay a collar of felt or cardboard around the root collar, so that the female cannot lay her eggs against the stem. A cover of fine mesh that stays on the bed through the whole season is more reliable.
Clubroot
disease- Signs
- The plant lags in growth, the foliage takes on a purple tinge and droops in the heat although there is moisture enough in the soil. The roots are thickened and twisted into club-shaped swellings, and the fine roots are missing.
- Prevention
- The spores stay in the soil for up to twenty years, so rotation is the strongest measure. Return brassicas to the same bed only in the fifth year. Liming raises the pH and lessens the infection, but it does not get rid of it. See to the drainage, on heavy soil with a raised bed, and remove the weeds of the cabbage family.
- What to do
- There is no cure. Raise the seedlings in larger pots and plant them out bigger than usual, so that they outgrow the first infection, and choose resistant varieties. Remove infected plants with their roots and do not compost them. Clean tools and footwear, so that you do not carry the spores onto a clean bed.
Flea beetles
pest- Signs
- The leaves are riddled with small round holes, as if somebody had peppered them with shot. Touched, the beetles jump. Young plants with such leaves stall or die, older ones grow through the damage.
- Prevention
- Clear away the plant debris in which the beetles overwinter. Cover the bed with fleece right after sowing or planting and leave it until the plants are strong. Keep the soil moist, because a dry warm spring is the worst case.
- What to do
- Pin fleece down at the edges, which is the main measure. In autumn or early spring loosen the top layer of soil to cut down the number of overwintering beetles.
Slugs and snails
pest- Signs
- Holes appear in the middle of the leaf rather than along the edge, young plants are eaten down to the ground, and there are slimy trails in the morning. On low-growing fruit there are gnawed pits.
- Prevention
- Remove the hiding places beside the bed: boards, stones, dense weeds. Water in the morning and not in the evening, so that the night is dry. Spread a band of coarse sand or gravel around the bed. Cover young plants with fleece. Pick them off at night, which is still the most effective measure.
Keep track of your plants with Tendask
Log the task and set a reminder for the next one. Every plant keeps its own history, so there is nothing to guess at.
Related plants
The plants below are in the same botanical family (Brassicaceae).
Sources about the plant: Alabama Cooperative Extension System, Bayerische Landesanstalt für Weinbau und Gartenbau, Clemson Cooperative Extension, GBIF Backbone Taxonomy, KGZS Zavod Ljubljana, KGZS Zavod Nova Gorica, NC State Extension Plant Toolbox, Royal Horticultural Society, Semenarna Ljubljana, Smernice za strokovno utemeljeno gnojenje (Mihelič et al., MKGP 2011), University of Maryland Extension, Utah State University Extension, Wikidata. Checked between 14 and 28 August 2026. The problem descriptions also draw on: EPPO Global Database, University of Wisconsin-Madison Division of Extension.